I was pretty stoked to have the opportunity to surf this river mouth with only 4 of us out...It's renowned as having one of the heaviest local presence in Japan and you pretty much need an invite, or be with someone in the know to surf it. Kinda hammers home how different the surfing scene is over here... there seems to be territory lines for each break and everyone only surfs their local most of the time. Kinda frustrating when the local is average and you just know the beach down the road is pumping.
Although it wasn't as big as we were hoping, Bonga Perkins, Tosh Omi(simmo Japan distributor) and myself had some sic little runners. Rode my green PROJECTIONflex 'Kicking Mule' model this day.
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| Bonga showing us how it's done on a shortboard |
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| Omi goin around-the-house |
1 comment:
Locals rule every where. I noticed that long boarders surf at the back and there seems to be certain rules for others. Me japan have some nice people except for the guys who own surf shops they all just want to rule you. Bodyboarders are all cool but the guys who get sucked into buying those shitty old surf boards for 300 to 400 dollars are being ripped off. Thank goodness for freedom of choice to surf how and when you want and not to be controlled by surf shop owners who think if you don't buy from them or surf for the shop your not worth knowing.
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